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Sales Strong at Hermes


Hermes Paris has just posted a 12.8% increase in sales for the first half of the year and also announces plans to unveil 15 new or improved retail posts in the coming months. Further proof that what doesn't go out of style is worth investing in, the brisk sales at Hermes are mirrored in the vintage market, as well -- fashionistas hungry for rare silk scarves and enamel bracelets are in constant bidding wars on eBay. (Don't get me started on my recent loss of a safari-themed bangle from the early '80s. Damn you, iris1680!) A nice point of entree to the luxury brand? Perfect-for-summer scent "Un Jardin en Mediterranee," the eau de toilette equivalent of a stroll through Mediterranean gardens. At least until you justify that new Birkin.

The Classicist: Summer of Steve McQueen


Super cool movie star Steve McQueen was without a doubt one of the most stylish men of all time. As we've noted in the past, his rugged sportiness, authentic masculinity and innate good taste have inspired countless fashion designers, not to mention scores of other actors who followed in his wake. McQueen fans of all sorts have a lot to celebrate this summer: there are two major new books on the "King of Cool" coming out, as well as a special McQueen tribute edition Ford Mustang, while the star's famous 1970 Porsche, worth an estimated $2 million, is going up for auction.

The first book just went on sale: Steve McQueen: A Life in Pictures edited by Yann Brice Dherbier (Pavilion, $40). The mix of classic and less well-known images of the style icon is artfully put together, but what struck us most about the book was its large format, showing details that you just don't get in smaller versions (see the gallery for a preview). For instance, in this cover image you can clearly see that McQueen is wearing a classic Baracuta jacket from England - which by the way are still sold here at Ben Silver in Charleston, one of the best men's clothiers in the country.

Equally striking and noticeable due to the impressive scale are the identifiable images which have clearly influenced designers like Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors who have built whole collections and ad campaigns around the King of Cool. Lauren in particular is a well-known McQueen fanatic. The index to Michael Gross' brilliant biography of the designer, Genuine Authentic, contains no less than six separate entries for the actor.

Gross writes that Lauren staged shoots based on McQueen's movies - his favorite film is said to be 1968's The Thomas Crown Affair - sometimes with himself in the starring role, and hung photos of the actor in both his houses and stores. If you look closely enough at the photos in Dherbier's book and compare them to Lauren's designs you can see where he copied sweaters, jackets, details on suits, even the carelessly elegant way McQueen always wore his clothes.

The other book, Unforgettable Steve McQueen hasn't been published yet - we'll update you on that when the time comes - but it features a foreword by another McQueen wannabe: Brad Pitt. We'd say he's making a good start at filling the King of Cool's shoes, but he's got a ways to go yet.

Gallery: Endless McQueen Summer

In his Porsche at the Riverside Raceway, 1959Filming Le Mans, 1971At the racetrack, c.1965At home in Hollywood, 1960At the wheel of his Lotus Eleven, 1961

Win A Lugo Shirt and Tie


I've got nothing against a man in casual clothing but casual has its time and place. When you need to step away from the t-shirt and the polo it's time to head to Lugo. The New York store offers fine Italian shirts cut to flatter a man's shape. Lugo creates elegantly stitched shirts that are broad at the shoulder and slim at the waist with mother-of-pearl buttons and the option of French or button cuffs. The shirts also come in a vibrant array of colors.

This week we are giving away not just a Lugo shirt but also a handmade silk tie. And you get to choose the combination either online or by visiting their NYC store so whether you are sartorially adventurous or perhaps a bit more classic you can choose the shirt and tie that suit your style.

Want to win? We are offering fashion redemption here so make your fashion confession, what do you most regret ever wearing?

To enter, all you need to do is leave a comment below before 5:00PM Eastern, Friday, July 25, 2008. We'll randomly choose one winner amongst the eligible entries.

Some other important details:

* To enter, leave a confirmed comment below answering the question above.
* The comment must be left and confirmed before Friday, July 25, 2008 at 5:00PM Eastern Time.
* You may only enter once.
* One winner will be selected in a random drawing.
* One winner will receive the Lugo shirt and tie valued at approximately $370.
* Open to legal residents of the 50 United States, the District of Columbia and Canada (excluding Quebec) who are 18 and older.

See complete contest rules here.

Alexander McQueen AW '08: Online Shoppers Rejoice

Alexander McQueen -- bestowed high honors from the Queen herself as well as the late ruling monarch of fashion, Isabella Blow -- has just granted devotees across the globe, or at least those with functioning laptops, their wish come true: online shopping via his website. As of yesterday, McQueen's Autumn/Winter 2008 Collection is available for purchase online. Featuring seemingly life-sized models posing in various Fall looks, the site's menswear group appears en route to an obscenely chic hunting party in the English countryside. One can waste a good portion of the afternoon viewing catwalk video from the Fall show, each look an exercise in sleek, fashioned from luxe black tulle and mohair and often with intricate crystal detailing. Oh, and there's free shipping in the U.S. Same day messenger service available to Manhattanites. How befitting.

The Classicist: Bamford's New Fall Favorites

Bamford & Sons, the bastion of top-drawer British style whose killer custom Rolex we wrote about a couple months back, has come out with a stunning fall collection that actually has us looking forward to the end of summer. In addition, the company is launching a new Bath & Body line to add to their already impressive lineup of clothing and accessories, which includes everything from cashmere blankets to limited edition sterling silver iPods.

Bamford's sporty classics with a bit of a natty twist - check out this cashmere shooting jacket paired with a purple cashmere sweater - are known for being extremely comfortable and well made. The company's motto is "A man's life should determine his clothes; not vice versa." Their craftsmanship and blend of "innovation and heritage" calls to mind a classic British sportscar with beautiful burled walnut inlays, chrome gauges and hand-stitched leather seats.

For fall, traditional items such as this shooting jacket, the classic pea coat, tweeds and trench coats are given a lighter, more contemporary feel. Organic, sustainable and natural fibers are used, never synthetics. It may surprise you to know that not only is this shooting jacket water-resistant, but it is treated with a natural moisture repellent derived from the lotus flower rather than any nasty chemicals. If you bought one of those beautiful $100,000 Asprey shotguns we wrote about, this is the jacket to do it justice.

Gallery: Bamford & Sons for Fall

Super merino wool tweed vest.Dark navy wool/cashmere 'lotus finish' pea coat. Charcoal sueded merino lambskin jacket.Super merino wool tweed jacket.Customized B&S PVD Rolex Daytona.

Continue reading The Classicist: Bamford's New Fall Favorites

The Classicist: The Henley Royal Regatta


Earlier this month we reported on the Royal Ascot races, one of the highlights of the English social season. This week ushers in another classic British sporting event-cum-society pageant, the Henley Royal Regatta. The five-day Regatta, held on the River Thames by the town of Henley-on-Thames, takes place over the first weekend of every July and runs from Wednesday the 2nd through Sunday the 6th this year.

International crews compete in various races at the Regatta, which has been held every year since 1839 except during the two World Wars, the main event being the Grand Challenge Cup for Men's Eights. Prince Albert, Queen Victoria's consort, became the Regatta's first Royal Patron in 1851, a tradition carried on by the reigning monarch ever since, though unlike Royal Ascot they don't always deign to attend.

Even more so than at Ascot, Henley provides an opportunity for aristocrats from the sporting and social sets to dress in that distinctively British style which has inspired so many fashion designers over the decades. The commercialization of Henley, unlike Ascot, Wimbledon and cricket at Lord's, has been slower to take hold, and as Godfrey Smith writes in The English Season, it is something of "an Edwardian time warp."

Gallery: Henley Royal Regatta

A scene at Henley from the 1900s.Oarsmen in Leander pink.Victorious crew.Spectators in the Stewards' EnclosureSpectators afloat.

Continue reading The Classicist: The Henley Royal Regatta

Results of the Sopranos Auction


Last month we reported that there was to be an auction of apparel from The Sopranos. The results from the June 25 event are in: Twenty-five outfits worn by James Gandolfini's alter ego raised $187,750 and benefited the Wounded Warrior Project, a nonprofit that aids wounded soldiers in Iraq and Afghanistan. Gandolfini attended part of the Christie's auction with a soldier from the project.

The highest bid was for a faux-bloodstained outfit that Gandolfini wore in a scene when Tony is shot by a demented Uncle Junior: the black and beige short-sleeve polo shirt, a tank top and black pants brought in $43,750. The next highest bid was $21,250 for a four-piece costume that included a blue, red and yellow striped robe and boxer shorts that the actor wore in numerous episodes. Other top-selling outfits included a tan cotton bathrobe with lavender trim and 'S' insignia on the breast pocket that was featured in the pilot when Tony fetched the morning paper and fed the ducks in his pool, which raised $13,750.

All of the outfits were authenticated by Gandolfini, and many had the original production tags attached. See a sampling of the auctioned items in the gallery. See the entire lot and prices realized here.

Gallery: Results of the Sopranos Auction

New "Bespoke" Ruling: A Blow to Savile Row?


There's quite a row on Savile Row over the UK Advertising Standards Authority's brand new ruling that suits which are not entirely handmade may now be sold as "bespoke." It has horrified some Savile Row stalwarts who've long fought to protect their trade from such encroachments; late last year tailor's guild the Savile Row Bespoke Association (SRBA) trademarked the term "Savile Row Bespoke" to prevent parvenus from taking unfair advantage. According to the SRBA's guidelines, to qualify as bespoke a suit must be crafted from a choice of at least 2,000 fabrics and its construction requires at least 50 hours of hand-stitching.

However, SRBA board member Anda Rowland, owner of storied 100-year-old Row house Anderson & Sheppard, tells Luxist she is taking the philosophical view. While lamenting the ruling's implied lack of respect for Britain's tailoring trade, to her way of thinking a fellow who would be content with a faux-Row suit merely made-to-measure was "never a true bespoke customer in the first place" she tells us, while any connoisseur "will ultimately be able to spot the difference between true bespoke tailoring and incorrectly labeled imitations." In the meantime, made-to-measure garments, no matter what they're sold as, can continue to serve their proper purpose: "providing a bridge from ready-to-wear to bespoke."

For those seeking sartorial enlightenment, Rowland notes the SRBA has launched a website, savilerowbespoke.com, to help them on their path to proper tailoring. In addition, when Anderson & Sheppard moved into its new premises at 32 Old Burlington Street, Rowland says, "we opened up our workrooms especially to confront the confusion that potential customers might have over the increasing number of terms being used to describe made-to-measure... Since moving, we have been welcoming more and more first time customers who have done research through word of mouth, reputable press and the Internet and therefore have a very good idea of why they have come to us." No mere ruling no matter how barmy will change that.

Pictured above is Savile Row maverick Ozwald Boateng. See the gallery for more.

Gallery: Savile Row Style

Anderson & SheppardAnderson & Sheppard cutting roomAn Anderson & Sheppard suitSavile Row shopsGieves & Hawkes interior

New Dress Code, Same Classic Style at Royal Ascot Races

Since it was founded by Queen Anne in 1711, the annual Royal Ascot races have become the highlight of the English social season. Ostensibly a five-day sporting event, it's also evolved into something of an immense fashion show, marked by the arrival of the Royal Family in ceremonial horse-drawn carriages every day. It has become the style for ladies to sport increasingly outrageous hats, and lately the traditional rules about "formal day dress" in the coveted Royal Enclosure have been rather loosely interpreted, much to the Queen's dismay.

This year officials have cracked down, declaring that "Off the shoulder, halter neck, spaghetti straps and dresses with a strap of less than one inch and/or miniskirts are considered unsuitable," while "Midriffs must be covered and trouser suits must be full length and of matching material and color." Those not in compliance will be asked to leave the Royal Enclosure. Gentlemen have always been required to wear full morning dress with top hats. Lest all the pageantry detract from the business at hand, it's worth noting that prize money at this year's event, which runs through Saturday, has reached an unprecedented $7.8 million.

Gallery: Royal Ascot Races

The Queen arrives in her ceremonial carriage.Natty gentlemen in the Royal Enclosure.Ladies' millinery.Rounding a turn.The colorful field.

John Lobb's Luxe New Shoes and Boots for Fall

The fall line from John Lobb, bootmaker to British royalty since the 1860s and fashioner of what is arguably the world's finest men's footwear, isn't due to arrive in stores for another couple of weeks - but we have an exclusive preview for you. Lobb, founded in 1849, received its first Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales in 1863. Aside from sovereigns and heads of state, Lobbs have long been the favored footwear of fops including Cole Porter, Cecil Beaton, Hugh Grant and Daniel Day-Lewis.

Handmade from the finest quality full grain leathers, Lobb shoes "combine heritage, tradition and modernity" with distinction and elegance. The new ready-to-wear line features classic oxfords and monk straps, jodphur boots, riding boots (like the Hellesdon model in tan brown shire calf pictured here) and suede chukka boots, some available in a striking crimson red. Of course if money is no object, the company (which is now owned by Hermes) also offers bespoke services. See the gallery for more.

Gallery: John Lobb's Fall Line

Ashill in black Oxford calf.Watton in dark brown suede.Romsey in red suede.Terrefort riding boot in black and tan calf.The Lobb shop in London.

Iconic French Tennis Shoe Arrives in U.S.A.


La Tennis Bensimon, the iconic French sneaker that was a favorite of John F. Kennedy and super-cool musician Serge Gainsbourg, is finally arriving in the U.S. for fall. The classic tennis shoes, rendered in cotton canvas, leather and suede, have long been a favorite of stylish fellows who tracked them down in Europe and Japan. Designer Serge Bensimon, whose grandfather began the business by importing American Army surplus clothing following World War II, says that "For me, creation is a sensitive and eclectic dialogue between art, literature and travel." The men's collection, which will now be available at Bloomingdale's, is "classic and simple yet luxurious, reflecting the essence of Parisian style." Canvas Sneakers have been given the Men.Style.com seal of approval for summer. We're partial to the navy canvas version pictured above. See the gallery for more examples.

[via Kempt]

Gallery: La Tennis Bensimon

Limited edition leather.Cotton canvas stripe.Limited edition leather Suede hi-top.Serge Gainsbourg.

Dolce & Gabbana Tailors Italian Nat'l Soccer Team


To celebrate the 2008 European Cup soccer tournament, dashing designers Dolce & Gabbana have created a stylish new wardrobe for the Italian National Football Team ("Nazionale"). Italy debuted today in the fiercely-competitive 16-nation tournament at the Stade de Suisse in Berne, Switzerland. Dolce & Gabbana custom-tailored natty narrow-lapeled one-button dark blue suits with the Nazionale badge embroidered on the breast pocket, classic white shirts and solid narrow blue silk ties for the team. Filling out their off-pitch wardrobe are blue single-breasted peak-lapel blazers, matching four-button vests, blue cotton and wool hooded track suit tops, blue cotton track suit bottoms with satin belts and sides, and black nylon padded parkas with multiple pockets and detachable hoods. The collaboration is the latest in a line of recent designer makeovers for famed European football (soccer) teams, including Giorgio Armani for the Chelsea F.C. and Paul Smith for Manchester United. See the gallery for more.

Gallery: Designer Football

Dolce & Gabbana.Italian National Football Team.Armani for Chelsea.Paul Smith for Manchester United.A Manchester United blazer from the '50s.

The Classicist: 10 Yrs. of Paul Smith at Westbourne House

Brilliant British designer Sir Paul Smith recently celebrated an important milestone in his colorful career: the 10th anniversary of his incredible flagship store in London's Notting Hill, Westbourne House. The perfect realization of a long term dream of Sir Paul's, the shop is designed to feel like someone's tastefully, quirkily lavish London home, and features a unique range of men's and women's clothes and accessories, housewares and knickknacks alongside a cllection of jewellery, books, art and antiques.

The architecturally-significant establishment is also the center of his exclusive bespoke tailoring operation. Smith says he still gets a thrill every time he walks in the door. To commemorate the anniversary, Smith and friends like shoe maestro Manolo Blahnik have created of limited edition products, available exclusively at Westbourne House, including watercolors, hand-painted plates, jewelry and a retro radio.

Smith, whose known for his signature multicolored stripes, opened his first clothing shop in 1970 and showed his first menswear collection under the Paul Smith label in 1976. Today Westbourne House is one of 14 Paul Smith shops in England; there are also outlets in Paris, Milan, New York, Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan, the Philippines, Korea, Kuwait, the United Arab Emirates and others, as well as dozens in Japan, where Sir Paul is something of a cult figure. Today he has 12 different collections including Paul Smith, Paul Smith Women, Paul Smith Jeans, Paul Smith London, Paul Smith Bespoke, Paul Smith Shoes, Paul Smith Fragrance and Paul Smith Spectacles. The company's annual revenue as of 2006 exceeded $600 million.

Gallery: Paul Smith & Westbourne House

Paul Smith and Paul Weller (L).A men's look from the current collection.Westbourne House.Westbourne House interior.A Paul Smith designed Mini Cooper.

Continue reading The Classicist: 10 Yrs. of Paul Smith at Westbourne House

Styledrops -- Italian Fashion, With Passion

While researching something for Luxist, I came across Styledrops, a fashion site for men, women and children that sells upscale Italian designer goods. For women, select from shoes, handbags, clothing and accessories. Same for men, minus the handbags. Kids get shoes and clothing. The site boasts "the best price you have ever seen on the Internet!"

A sampling of brands: Prada, Gucci, Fendi, Tod's, Hogan, Dior, Fratelli Rossetti, Ferragamo, Cesare Paciotti, Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Frankie Morello. Check here for the whole list for women, men and kids. Choose by type of item, designer or price.

I haven't purchased from the site so I can't vouch for service or quality, but the site itself is easy to navigate and has some very high-end items.

Great China Wall Hoodies

If you've ever felt the urge to drop over a grand on a hoodie, look no further than Great China Wall. Simply the most luxurious casual gear that money can buy, Great China Wall designs feature crystal detailing and limited edition tattoo type airbrushing reminiscent of Ed Hardy graphics. Made of that trendy delicate soft cotton, you definitly won't want to put them in the washer/dryer...this brand is far too high maintenance for me and truthfully I'd be a little wary of any man sporting it! Hoodies range from $900-$1400, check out the collection online and decide for yourself if it's worth the loot or just another brand that's trying way too hard.


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